Don't come to Ceriana. . .

We just got back from a weekend in Umbria and Tuscany. We stayed in the beautiful town of Montone where two friends are planning to buy a home, in fact, we helped them contact a seller and got to see a lovely place built into the town's wall with beautiful views of Umbria out each window. Inside the mediaeval walls of Montone you'll find a very "done" town with a main square and all of the amenities required by residents and tourist alike. There are bars, restaurants, a  tobacconist (by the way, Umbria grows much of Italy's tobacco--ironically, a beautiful plant) a post office--once a Roman temple, and a town hall--complete with a mediaeval prison. Speaking to a "local" named Luigi I learned that Montone was recently "restored" with lots and lots of money from the region. Every bit of pavement which was "difficult" for the old folks to walk upon has been replaced with beautiful granite slabs and an elaborate drainage system has been added. The electric and phone wiring has been neatly tucked and discreetly "hidden" in special troughs and the light fixtures have been rewired and repaired. A waitress in a neighboring town described Montone as the place, "where leaves are not allowed to touch the ground." We were told that Rick Steves sends his private tours there but is not allowed to publicize it or he will not be welcomed back!

Our hosts escorted us to the hillside town of Anghiari and we toured the Museo della Battiglia commemorating the famous battle of Anghiari--mostly famous because of Leonardo's failed attempt at depicting the battle in fresco! Anghiari is impressive when viewing it from the road below; a proper rampart! A long, straight and steep road leads back to the valley floor. 


We stopped in Monterchi to pay our respects to the Madonna del Parto by Piero della Francesca. Here the Madonna is depicted pregnant, a hand rending her gown, and a look on her face as if to say, "this is gonna hurt!" 

We lunched in Sansepolcro; Rich and I gorged ourselves on Bistecca Fiorentina. We snuck a peek at another famous fresco by Piero della Francesco of Christ exiting the crypt. 


On the second day of touring we were taken to Cortona the town made famous by Frances Mayes's book, Under The Tuscan Sun. A lovely town; a boutique town; beautiful views; rude waiters. The only hill town I've seen with outdoor escalators leading up from the parking lot. I remember seeing a sketch by Leonardo da Vinci of an "escalator" so, in this way, I guess Cortona offers a nod to her famous brother. The first and longest escalator was out of order and it was fun to watch American tourists stand at its base and wonder if it was worth the climb.


Along a winding two-way road, wide enough for one average-sized car, we found our way to "Le Celle" di Cortona where St. Francis spent part of his monastic life. His "cell" is carved into the mountain where he desired to become "one" with the rock! Its setting, its serenity, its significance makes "Le Celle" a most moving and memorable site.

After a journey of two, three and a half hour "legs" seperated by a one and a half hour lunch in Sarzana, a typical Ligurian town, we arrived back home in Ceriana. Here, the streets have not been repaved for centuries, water drains where it likes, or not, and wires hang in "function over form" fashion. Our street lights work but many of the glass panes need replacing. We don't have famous frescos or famous authors living here; our church bells are not turned off at night. What we do have is a vital community surviving the way it's survived for years; independent of tourist dollars. It's a commune, nothing more, a lovely, lovely commune. Be Advised: There are no escalators in Ceriana!

Ancient Roman Arch holding up Casa Zappiana!