So Ligurian!

We're known, here in Liguria, as "penny-pinchers". . . to use a polite term. Being thrifty is cherished and respected here. Here, if one accumulates wealth one doesn't boast or brag. The outside of a Ligurian home might appear plain and even run-down but don't be too quick to judge the occupant's taste or wealth by the home's façade! I've been in several of these homes and have been impressed by the quality of the appointments. Paradoxically, the habit of "hiding of one's wealth" doesn't affect the extreme generosity of most Ligurians. Be very careful when complimenting a particular object in a Ligurian home, or you might be leaving with it!

In 2008, my sister Linda accompanied me to Ceriana for Holy Week, an "over the top" experience one must see to believe--I'll write about it next Easter. One day while eating at En Tu Furnu, its propriator, Dario, told us that he'd recently inherited three apartments in Sanremo. The owner of these appartments had died in the arms of Dario's son, Matteo. The man was Matteo's godfather and was a well-known ballet dancer who had toured the world and collected many fine objects along the way. Dario, being much more interested in real estate than artwork, was anxious to clear out the apartments as soon as he could. He described the apartments as being filled with, "vasi e quadri e tappeti ecc." (vases and frames and carpets, etc.) and he wanted us; my sister and I and a few other friends, to see them before the apartments were emptied. He kept insisting that this was something we must see! "Incredibile!" With my limited comprehension of Italian, I wasn't quite sure what Dario intended but, being on vacation, we were primed for adventure.

Nothing, even if Dario spoke "the Queenes English," could have prepared us for what we encountered when we entered the apartments! "Vasi e quadri e tappeti, ecc!" The rooms were "standing room only" with:  paintings, porcelain, ceramics, crucifixes, icons--both Russian and Greek, oriental carpets, bolts of fabric, candelabras, china, figurines, framed photographs, pewter plates, and rosaries. There was no theme.  From the ceiling hung Venetian glass chandeliers; several in each room!

 Our mouths dropped open and our expressions were frozen for what seemed an eternity. And Dario started to grin! Just as Dario's grin reached each of his ears, he started doing what he had intended to do from the start. While we, in our stupor, were exploring the rooms and the artwork Dario took note of the objects which gave us pause.  Before any of us could utter a syllable our arms were being filled with treasure. Icons--I have several now, a crucifix, pewter plates, two capodimonte urns. In Linda's arms were bolts of fabric, an icon and an oil painting of the Madonna. I glanced at our friends as they hugged (again) icons, photographs and candlesticks. I forced myself to stop looking at things for fear that they too would end up in my already capacitated arms.

I cannot properly describe what we had, just then, experienced except to say it was both, frenetic and fantastic in the true sense of these words. Dario; victorious, grinned and glowed!

Dario, moving too fast to focus!

Later that day it hit us:  in a matter of seconds, we were clutching objects of art that took Dario's friend years to collect! Sadly, we discussed how part of a man's life could be dismantled and carried off in an instant. How could Dario do such a thing with such great cheer? Dario's generosity stems from the very heart of this rugged region. Here, people share their wealth, whatever "wealth" is and however it's defined:  money, if need be; crops; time; talent. They give and give again; assured that in their time of need someone will be there giving back.

God, I love this place!

Matteo's Godfather, Dario's Friend.